Ageing and Fine Lines Treatment
| Condition | Facial Ageing & Photo-damage |
|---|---|
| Key Drivers | UV Radiation, Collagen Loss, Glycation, Time |
| Core Treatments | Tretinoin, Niacinamide, Vitamin C, SPF |
| Improvement Timeline | 3–6 months (Texture), 6–12 months (Wrinkles) |
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Fine lines are early, shallow creases that follow the skin’s natural micro-relief around high-movement areas such as crow’s feet, the forehead and the perioral region. They appear as epidermal turnover slows and surface hydration drops. With repeated expression, these lines can etch in as true wrinkles that remain visible at rest [1] [2].
Under the surface, the dermal–epidermal junction flattens and the dermis shows more fragmented collagen and elastin. Fibroblasts sitting on this damaged scaffold produce less high-quality collagen, which further weakens support [3] [4] [5]. Chronic sun exposure can replace orderly elastic tissue with solar elastosis, which presents as coarser lines and a crepey look in exposed areas [6].
Water-binding molecules such as hyaluronic acid decline with age, so skin holds less water and fine lines look more obvious in dry conditions [7]. Glycation forms crosslinks in collagen and elastin that stiffen the dermis and reduce its ability to spring back after movement [8]. Ultraviolet light accelerates these pathways by switching on matrix-degrading enzymes such as MMP-1, which fragment collagen and suppress fresh synthesis [9].
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Other signs of ageing
Ageing is more than lines. You might notice dullness, rough or crepey texture, enlarged pores, uneven tone or brown spots, visible surface vessels, and a general loss of firmness and elasticity. Genetics and baseline skin type influence how quickly these changes show. Slower renewal, less collagen and elastin, drier barrier function and lifelong hormonal changes across all genders can speed the progression of texture change and laxity.
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Causes of wrinkles, fine lines and other signs of ageing
Non-preventable (intrinsic) factors
Genetics, baseline skin type and time all influence how skin ages. With age, cell turnover slows, fibroblasts make less and lower-quality collagen and elastin, and the barrier tends to run drier. The dermal–epidermal junction flattens, so the surface looks less taut. Hormonal shifts across the lifespan can further reduce collagen and epidermal lipids. These intrinsic changes explain why skin gradually looks thinner, drier and more lined even without heavy sun exposure [4] [7].
Preventable (extrinsic) factors
Ultraviolet radiation is the major driver of visible facial ageing. UV triggers oxidative stress and matrix metalloproteinases that fragment collagen, leading to coarser lines, uneven tone and laxity. Lifestyle and environment add to the load. Smoking, urban air pollution, poor sleep, high stress and high-glycaemic diets are linked with worse photoageing features. Skin type also shapes risk and presentation. Lower Fitzpatrick phototypes burn more easily and often show earlier lines and mottled pigment, while deeper tones may show more uneven tone and persistent dark patches. Twin and cohort data suggest sun exposure and behaviour can outweigh shared genetics in the speed of visible ageing [10] [11] [18].
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Skin types and environmental risks
Australia has a high UV index. Even incidental sun during commutes or coffee runs adds up. A community randomised trial from Queensland showed that daily broad-spectrum sunscreen use slowed clinically measured photoageing over 4.5 years, compared with a discretionary approach [10].
How changes show can vary by skin tone. Lighter Fitzpatrick types often show earlier fine lines, redness and mottled pigment. Deeper tones are not protected from photoageing, but the visible signs may skew toward uneven tone and persistent dark patches, especially in high-UV settings [18].
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Ingredients that actually make a difference
Prescription retinoids (for example tretinoin). Support collagen, normalise turnover, soften fine lines and even mottled pigment. Start low and titrate steadily with medical guidance [12].
Niacinamide. Improves fine lines, elasticity, texture and red blotchiness, and supports the barrier so stronger actives are easier to tolerate [16] [17].
Vitamin C. Adds antioxidant support, brightens tone and complements sunscreen by neutralising UV-induced free radicals. Clinical work shows improvements in photodamage with appropriate concentrations, often over months [14] [15].
Pigment modulators when needed. In select cases, time-limited use of agents such as hydroquinone or tranexamic acid can help stubborn sun spots or melasma-like patches, always paired with strict sunscreen and maintenance retinoids for durable results.
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Why Prescription Skin beats OTC retinol
OTC retinol must convert in skin to retinoic acid, which can limit potency. Prescription molecules such as tretinoin deliver retinoic acid at therapeutic levels that repeatedly outperform OTC forms for wrinkles, tone and texture in controlled trials and reviews [12] [13].
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How to get started with Prescription Skin
Tell us about your skin and goals, and we will confirm suitability in a quick consult before creating your custom formula. You will receive clear step-by-step instructions, plus check-ins before each refill so we can adjust strength, add or simplify companions and keep your skin progressing. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, or have active skin disease, let us know so we can select safer alternatives and timing.
Start your skin assessment →
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References
- DermNet NZ. Facial lines and wrinkles. 2023. ↩︎
- Swift A, et al. The facial ageing process from the inside out. Plast Reconstr Surg Glob Open. 2020. ↩︎
- Sherratt MJ. Age-related changes at the dermal–epidermal junction. Mech Ageing Dev. 2009. ↩︎
- Fisher GJ, et al. Mechanisms of photoageing and chronological ageing in human skin. J Invest Dermatol. 2002. ↩︎
- Quan T, Fisher GJ. Role of matrix metalloproteinases in photoageing. J Invest Dermatol. 2009. ↩︎
- DermNet NZ. Solar elastosis. 2023. ↩︎
- Papakonstantinou E, et al. Hyaluronic acid: a key molecule in skin ageing. Dermatoendocrinol. 2012. ↩︎
- Pageon H. Glycation and skin ageing. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2010. ↩︎
- Xia W, et al. MMP-1 activity drives collagen fibril fragmentation and impairs TGF-β signalling. J Biol Chem. 2013. ↩︎
- Hughes MCB, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin ageing. Randomised trial with 4.5-year follow-up. Ann Intern Med. 2013. ↩︎
- Wong QYA, Chew FT. Defining skin ageing and its risk factors: systematic review and meta-analysis. Sci Rep. 2021. ↩︎
- Sitohang IBS, et al. Topical tretinoin for photoageing: systematic review of clinical efficacy and safety. 2022. ↩︎
- Gilchrest BA, et al. Topical tretinoin in photodamaged skin: clinical outcomes and histologic change. 1997. ↩︎
- Humbert PG, et al. Topical 5% vitamin C improves photodamaged facial skin. 2003. ↩︎
- Correia G, et al. Efficacy of topical vitamin C in photoageing and melasma: clinical review. 2023. ↩︎
- Bissett DL, et al. Topical niacinamide improves multiple signs of facial ageing. 2005. ↩︎
- Bissett DL, et al. Split-face study of 5% niacinamide showing improvements versus control. 2004. ↩︎
- Sharma AN, et al. Fitzpatrick Skin Type. StatPearls. 2023. ↩︎
Medically Reviewed Content
- Written by: The Prescription Skin Editorial Team
- Medically Reviewed by: Dr Mitch Bishop (AHPRA Registered Practitioner: MED0002309948)
- Last Updated: November 2025
This content is for informational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Treatment is subject to consultation and approval by our Australian-registered doctors.