Niacinamide

Niacinamide at Prescription Skin

Niacinamide, also known as Vitamin B3, is a true skincare all-rounder. Its remarkable versatility allows it to effectively address a wide array of skin concerns, solidifying its excellent reputation in the skincare world. The benefits of niacinamide skincare are extensive, including a noticeable reduction in the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, enhanced skin elasticity, and improved skin brightness. It’s also incredibly beneficial for managing conditions like acne, hyperpigmentation, and rosacea. Beyond these visible improvements, niacinamide boasts significant anti-inflammatory properties. Emerging research even suggests its potential as an effective treatment for certain skin cancers, underscoring its broad spectrum of positive impacts on skin health. Truly, this vitamin b3 skincare ingredient offers a comprehensive approach to skin wellness, effectively addressing almost everything! [1] [2] [4] [5] [7]

How Niacinamide Works

Anti-inflammatory modulation

While scientists continue to unravel the precise mechanisms of niacinamide, we understand several key ways it functions within the skin. Niacinamide acts as a modulator of inflammatory proteins called cytokines, which explains its powerful anti-inflammatory effects. Niacinamide influences several signalling switches inside skin cells that control the release of cytokines. In keratinocytes (the main skin cells in the outer layer) and sebocytes (the oil-making cells), niacinamide tones down the “control rooms” for pro-inflammatory signals. When this pathway is dampened, cells release lower amounts of cytokines such as IL-1, IL-6, IL-8 and TNF-α. The result is less background redness, less swelling around pores, and a calmer environment for breakouts to settle. [1] [6]

Cellular metabolism and efficiency

Niacinamide also plays a crucial role in boosting cellular metabolism, ensuring that skin cells can operate optimally and efficiently. [1]

Sebum regulation for acne-prone skin

Niacinamide helps “coach” oil glands to behave more evenly. Inside sebocytes (the oil-making cells in the glands), it influences enzymes that drive lipid production and energy use, which leads to a measurable drop in how quickly sebum reaches the surface. In real-world terms, that means less midday shine through the T-zone and fewer pores getting packed with a mix of oil and dead cells that can kick off comedones. [1]

It also improves the quality of surface oils. By calming low-grade inflammation around the follicle and reducing the breakdown of sebum into more irritating free fatty acids, niacinamide creates a less comedogenic environment. Pores stay clearer, oxidised “blackhead material” builds up more slowly, and the skin looks smoother across the nose and cheeks. [1] [4]

Antioxidant protection

One of the most important advantages of niacinamide is its antioxidant effect. The term ‘antioxidant’ is often used in health and skincare discussions without a clear explanation of its true meaning. Let's delve into a simple chemistry lesson to clarify this. Firstly, let’s consider electrons, which are one of the three main types of particles that constitute an atom, the smallest unit of matter. Essentially, everything we perceive physically is composed of atoms. Electrons typically exist in pairs, imparting a negative charge to atoms. This brings us to free radicals: atoms or molecules that possess an unpaired or uneven number of electrons. These unstable free radicals circulate throughout our body, including our skin, actively seeking to "steal" electrons from healthy cells. This process, where free radicals strip electrons from our healthy cells, is termed oxidative stress. Oxidative stress leads to cellular damage and significantly accelerates the aging process. Therefore, when we refer to antioxidants, we are talking about chemicals that can donate an extra electron to these circulating free radicals. This vital action protects our own healthy cells from having to surrender their electrons. Importantly, antioxidants themselves do not become free radicals after donating an electron. In essence, niacinamide is a potent antioxidant: an electron donor that safeguards your skin! [1]

What niacinamide can help with

• Oiliness and midday shine
• Enlarged-looking pores and uneven texture
• Post-acne marks and general uneven tone
• Redness and sensitivity in active routines
• Barrier support when using retinoids, benzoyl peroxide or chemical exfoliants [1] [2] [4] [5]

How to apply niacinamide

Apply a thin, even layer to clean, dry skin. If your prescription includes niacinamide within an all-in-one cream, use it as directed by your doctor, usually once or twice daily. If you have a separate serum in your routine, apply it after cleansing and before moisturiser. Consistent use gives the best results. [1]

Use your Prescription Skin on clean, fully dry skin in the evening. A pea-sized amount is usually enough for the whole face, so spread a thin film over the cheeks, forehead, chin and nose, taking care to avoid the corners of the nose, the lip line and the eyelids. If your prescription already contains hyaluronic acid, you do not need a separate hydrating serum underneath; the formula is designed to deliver comfort while the retinoid and niacinamide do their work. If your skin feels tight on application, you can place a light moisturiser on the corners that tend to sting, then apply your Prescription Skin everywhere else. [1]

Start slowly so your skin adapts. Many people do well with two or three nights per week for the first one to two weeks, then every second night, then most nights as comfort allows. If you notice more than mild dryness or stinging, pause for a night or two, moisturise, then restart at the last schedule that felt comfortable. Consistency over months matters more than rushing to nightly use in the first week. [1]

Keep the rest of your night routine simple. Skip extra leave-on acids like AHAs, BHAs or separate benzoyl peroxide on the same night unless your doctor has specifically advised it, because stacking strong actives can tip the barrier into irritation. If you use those products, place them on alternate nights. You can use a plain moisturiser after your Prescription Skin if you need extra comfort, but give your cream a minute to settle first so it spreads evenly. [1]

Support the plan in the morning with gentle care and sunscreen. Rinse with lukewarm water or a mild cleanser, apply a simple moisturiser if needed, and finish with a broad-spectrum SPF50+. Daily sun protection helps niacinamide and retinoids show their best results over time, and it reduces the chance of dryness looking worse through the day. [1]

Side effects, what is normal and what isn’t

Most people tolerate niacinamide very well, especially when it is built into a balanced night formula. In the first week or two it is common to feel a brief tingle on application, notice a mild warmth or blush that fades within ten to fifteen minutes, or see a little dryness around the nose or mouth as your routine settles. If your Prescription Skin also contains a retinoid, some light flaking can show up at the corners. A plain moisturiser after your cream usually settles this quickly. [1]

If the skin stings for longer than fifteen minutes, looks red for most of the day, or develops new patchy dryness that keeps spreading, slow the rhythm. Take a night or two off, moisturise, then restart at the last schedule that felt comfortable. Keep the rest of your routine simple on Prescription Skin nights and avoid stacking extra leave-on acids, because that combination often pushes the barrier into irritation. [1]

True reactions are uncommon but important to recognise. Stop the cream and check in with us if you see hives, swelling, a dermatitis-like rash, cracks or weeping, or if you feel persistent burning that does not settle with moisturiser. Very rarely, people flush with products that contain higher levels of nicotinic-acid impurities. If you ever notice sudden intense redness or heat after application, pause use and let us know so we can adjust the formulation. [1]

Breakouts from niacinamide itself are unlikely. If small uniform bumps appear, it is often the product base being a bit rich for your skin rather than the active. We can switch to a lighter vehicle. If your Prescription Skin also contains retinoids and see a short phase of extra spots in your usual areas, that is more consistent with retinoid “purging.” Keep the cadence gentle, moisturise, and use sunscreen each morning so the barrier stays calm while results build. [1]

Who should avoid niacinamide

Most people do not need to avoid niacinamide. It is generally well tolerated and is considered safe in pregnancy and breastfeeding. The main groups who should pause or steer clear are:

• Anyone with a known allergy or prior reaction to niacinamide, nicotinamide, or to a specific excipient in the formula. If you have reacted before, do not retry without medical advice.
• People who experience persistent flushing or burning after application that lasts beyond fifteen minutes. Very rarely this can be due to trace nicotinic acid impurities in some products. If this happens, stop and ask us to adjust the formulation.
• Active facial dermatitis, open skin, or immediately post-procedure. Hold new leave-on products until the skin has healed and your clinician says it is appropriate to restart.
• Current flares of periorificial dermatitis or very reactive barriers. Keep routines simple and avoid adding new leave-on actives until the flare is controlled. [1]

If breakouts appear with a niacinamide product, it is usually the base being too rich rather than the niacinamide itself. In that case we can switch you to a lighter vehicle rather than removing niacinamide from your plan.

FAQs

How to get started

Sign up for Prescription Skin, complete your Skin Questionnaire, and have your consultation with your doctor to discuss your skin history and goals. Your doctor will then prescribe a personalised Prescription Skin formula, which will be compounded, packed and shipped directly to you. Subscribers can have their formula reviewed every 2 months at no extra cost.

How long until I see results

Texture and comfort improvements are often noticed within 2 to 4 weeks. Oil regulation and brightness continue to improve over 6 to 12 weeks with consistent use. [2] [4] [5]

What concentration is best

Most people do well with 2 to 5 percent for daily use. Higher levels can be used when clinically appropriate, but your doctor will balance the full formula for comfort and results. [1]

Can I use niacinamide with vitamin C or retinoids

Yes. Niacinamide pairs well with both and is frequently combined in Prescription Skin plans to support the barrier and even tone. [1]

Will niacinamide clog pores

No. Our bases are non-comedogenic and niacinamide helps to regulate oil, which supports clearer-looking skin over time. [1] [4]

Is niacinamide suitable in pregnancy or breastfeeding

Niacinamide is generally considered suitable during pregnancy and breastfeeding, but your overall plan will be reviewed by your doctor to ensure each ingredient and base is appropriate for you. [1]