Retinoids

Retinoids at Prescription Skin

Retinoids are some of the most well-known and trusted ingredients available in the world of skincare. Retinoids (AKA Retinoic Acid, Retin A, Tretinoin, Retinol) are vitamin A containing ingredients that increase the speed at which your skin renews itself. When skin turns over at a healthy rate, pores are less likely to clog, texture becomes smoother and pigment can lift more easily. This is why retinoids are used for acne, early signs of ageing, sun-related dullness and post acne marks [1] [2] [3] [4] [5] [6].

How retinoids work

Removing old skin cells and stimulating new skin cell growth

Retinoids increase cell turnover. Old, sticky cells are lifted off the surface more quickly. Pores stay clearer and there is less opportunity for blackheads and whiteheads to form [2] [3].

Retinoids help normalise the follicle. This reduces the number of tiny blockages that later become inflamed pimples. Retinoids improve collagen over time. This can soften fine lines, rough texture and photoageing. Retinoids support treatment of uneven tone. When pigment containing cells are moved up to the surface more efficiently, other pigment treatments such as azelaic acid or niacinamide can work more effectively [2] [3] [4] [5] [6].

Because retinoids target several processes at once, we do not always need to give you multiple separate products. We only need to select the right retinoid, the right vehicle and the right schedule, then protect the skin barrier. Mechanistically, retinoids bind cutaneous retinoic acid receptors to influence differentiation, inflammatory signalling and collagen homeostasis, which explains benefits across acne and photoageing [2] [4] [5] [6] [8].

Stimulating the growth of new skin cells

Retinoids boost the rise of fresh skin cells and help old cells shed more quickly. By restoring a healthier pace of turnover, they unclog the upper follicle before micro-blockages can form. This helps keep pores clearer day to day and reduces the cycle of new breakouts. In the first few weeks, this faster renewal can briefly bring hidden congestion to the surface (“retinoid purging”), then steadies as the skin adapts [1] [3].

They can lower excess oil (sebum) and reduce the build-up of sticky skin cells (keratinisation, meaning extra cells sticking together), which are two key steps in forming blackheads and clogged pores. Retinoids calm overactive sebocytes (the oil-making cells in glands) and normalise how corneocytes (the outermost skin cells) mature and separate, so debris does not clump in the pore. That comedolytic effect helps other acne treatments like benzoyl peroxide or topical antibiotics spread and work more evenly. With regular use, you see fewer new comedones and less shine across oil-prone areas [1] [3].

For anti-ageing, this steadier renewal softens fine lines and helps even out blotchy or rough areas so skin looks smoother and more uniform [4] [5] [6] [8].

Stimulating collagen production

Retinoids also support dermal collagen by encouraging new synthesis and limiting enzymes that break collagen down. Over time, the epidermis (the surface layer) looks more refined and the dermal matrix (the deeper support network) better organised, which improves texture and elasticity. Results build gradually, with glow and smoothness appearing first, and lines and mottled pigment improving over months alongside consistent sunscreen [4] [5] [6] [8].

Reducing inflammation

For acne, retinoids help by reducing redness and swelling. They dial down pro-inflammatory signals like cytokines (chemical messengers that call in immune cells), which eases tenderness and visible erythema. By normalising how corneocytes (the outermost skin cells) shed, retinoids lower pressure in the pore so the follicle wall is less likely to rupture, which further limits inflammation. Over time this also helps fade post-inflammatory erythema and marks [2] [3].

Types of retinoids and strengths

Tretinoin

Tretinoin is the standard prescription vitamin A that is active as soon as it touches the skin, so it does not need conversion in the skin to work [1][4][5][7]. It improves mixed or persistent acne by keeping pores clearer and by normalising how corneocytes (outer skin cells) shed inside the follicle, which reduces micro-plugs and new breakouts. For photoageing, regular use supports collagen and helps soften fine lines, rough texture and post-acne marks. Typical strengths are 0.025%, 0.05% and 0.1% in gels, creams or lotions; we usually start lower or reduce frequency if you have sensitive or reactive skin, then step up as tolerance builds [1][4][7].

Tazarotene

Tazarotene is a later-generation retinoid that binds retinoic acid receptors (proteins that control how skin cells grow and repair) with high selectivity, which can make it very effective for comedonal acne and more resistant congestion [1][3]. It also helps with texture change and blotchy tone, but it can be more irritating than tretinoin, especially in the first few weeks. To improve comfort, we choose gentler vehicles, add barrier-supporting companions and begin with fewer nights each week before increasing. Common prescription strengths are 0.045% lotion and 0.1% gel or cream; we reserve these for the right cases and always pair with a clear moisturiser plan and sunscreen.

How long until I start to see results?

Your skin timeline

Healthy skin changes slowly. Consistency and patience with your Prescription Skin matter most, especially if it includes retinoids. Used regularly, retinoids set the pace for when you’ll notice improvements. Expect visible changes to start at around 2–4 months, with results building the longer you stay on plan. This is a marathon, not a sprint [1] [3].

Acne

Acne is a chronic condition, so improvements arrive gradually. You can’t control when a pore decides to clog, but you can control how consistently you use your retinoid. Many people begin to see clearer, calmer skin within 8–12 weeks of steady use. Results vary person to person, so if progress feels slow, remember skin biology takes time to reset and continue following your plan [1] [3].

Fine lines and wrinkles

Texture and glow often start to improve by about 16 weeks as turnover normalises. Deeper benefits, like softening of fine lines and more even tone, usually need longer. With consistent use, meaningful changes in wrinkles and firmness commonly appear over 6–12 months [4] [5] [6] [8].

A quick reminder as results build for lines and wrinkles: sunlight can quietly undo progress. UV exposure is thought to drive the majority of visible facial ageing, so protecting daily is what lets your retinoid gains accumulate. Make SPF50, shade and sunglasses automatic each morning, then keep your active routine steady at night. With that foundation, early improvements are more likely to hold and continue.

How to apply retinoids

Begin with dry, comfortable skin. If you’re prone to irritation, keep a light moisturiser handy to buffer. Keep product away from the corners of the nose, lips and eyelids, and build up frequency slowly. Use retinoids only at night.

1. 1. Cleanse and dry Wash with a gentle cleanser, then wait until the skin is fully dry before you continue.
   2. Prep with moisturiser Smooth on a thin layer of a non-comedogenic moisturiser to reduce early tightness and flaking.
   3. Apply a small amount of retinoid Dispense 1–2 pumps (or a pea-sized amount, if directed) and spread a very thin film over the face, avoiding the nostrils, lips and the eye contour.
   4. Finish up Wash your hands after application and leave the product on overnight.

Easing onto your Prescription Skin retinoid

Getting started is about teaching your skin a new habit. Begin by applying your retinoid every third night and see how you feel for a few days. If your skin is calm, step up to every second night. When that still feels comfortable, move to nightly use. Let your skin be the guide rather than the calendar; a little tightness or faint flaking at the start is common as turnover speeds up, but sharp stinging or persistent redness means it is time to slow the pace and check in with us [1] [9].

Finding the right rhythm

If irritation appears, do not push through it. Pause for two or three nights, keep moisturising, and then restart at the last schedule your skin tolerated. Most people acclimatise over the first month. Very sensitive skin can try “short-contact” nights: apply a thin layer, leave it on for about an hour, then cleanse and moisturise before bed. As tolerance builds, extend the wear time until you are leaving it on overnight without discomfort [9].

Keeping the barrier happy

You will hear us talk about buffering, because it works. The moisturiser “sandwich” is simple: moisturiser first, then your retinoid, then another light layer of moisturiser. This cushions the skin without reducing the benefit. Protect the corners that tend to get sore by placing a thin film of barrier ointment along the nostrils, the corners of the mouth and just under the eyes before you apply your cream. If peeling shows up, swap in a richer barrier cream at night until things settle [1] [9].

Application details that matter

Apply to fully dry skin. Damp skin can absorb product more quickly and tip you into irritation. Use a pea-sized amount or 1–2 pumps for the whole face and spread it thinly over the areas you are treating, avoiding the eyelid margins, the sides of the nose and the lip line. Wash your hands after applying. Keep mornings simple for the first few weeks; many people do well with a lukewarm-water rinse, a gentle moisturiser and sunscreen rather than a second cleanse that can add to dryness [1] [9].

What to pause and what to keep

While you are finding your cadence, strip the routine back to basics. Hold off on strong leave-on acids like AHAs, BHAs and high-strength vitamin C until your skin is clearly tolerating the retinoid. If you already use benzoyl peroxide, alternate nights unless your doctor has advised a specific plan. Press pause on other potentially irritating procedures such as waxing, laser or aggressive scrubs until your barrier feels settled again [1] [3] [9].

Everyday comfort tips

Hot water is the enemy of a calm barrier, so switch to warm showers and avoid steaming your face. To lift flaky patches gently, a non-comedogenic oil cleanser can help melt away loosened scale without scrubbing. If you prefer not to use oil, pat with a soft microfibre cloth right after a warm (not hot) shower. A konjac sponge is another very gentle option when used with light pressure on well-hydrated skin.

Sun habits while you build results

Fun fact: retinoids do not directly make skin more sensitive to sunlight. They speed up renewal, which brings fresher cells to the surface sooner, and those cells react more readily to UV and heat. Daily sunscreen, shade and a hat protect that new skin so you can keep making progress. Reach for a broad-spectrum SPF50+ each morning and reapply for extended outdoor time.

Side effects, what is normal and what isn’t

In the first month, it’s common to notice mild dryness or a feeling of tightness, along with light flaking around the mouth, nose or chin. Some people feel a brief tingling when they apply their cream, especially in the first few uses. You might also see a short phase where breakouts increase in the areas you usually get pimples; this “purging” reflects faster turnover, bringing existing micro-comedones to the surface [1] [3].

Please contact us promptly if you experience strong burning that does not settle with moisturiser, cracks or weeping, or a dermatitis-like rash. Worsening of rosacea also warrants a check-in so we can adjust your plan. If you are pregnant, trying to conceive or breastfeeding, stop prescription retinoids and let us know so we can switch to safer alternatives [10] [11] [12] [13].

Most irritation can be managed by changing how often you apply the product, switching to a gentler base, or adding barrier support. Simple measures like the moisturiser “sandwich,” avoiding application on damp skin, and pausing other strong actives usually restore comfort. If symptoms persist despite these steps, we will re-tune your schedule, base or strength to get you back on track [1] [9].

Who should avoid prescription retinoids

• Pregnancy, trying to conceive or breastfeeding
• Active facial eczema or dermatitis
• Sunburn, recent laser or peel
• Severe rosacea that is flaring

We will suggest pregnancy-safe or barrier-safe plans such as azelaic acid and niacinamide in these situations. Regulatory and teratology bodies advise against topical retinoids during pregnancy or when planning pregnancy, despite low systemic absorption [10] [11] [12] [13].

FAQs

How to get started

Sign up for Prescription Skin, complete your Skin Questionnaire and have your doctor consultation to cover history and goals. Your personalised formula is compounded, packed and shipped to you. Subscribers have a review every two months at no extra cost.

How long until I see results

Texture and fewer new comedones often show by 4–6 weeks. Acne improves for many by 8–12 weeks. Lines and mottled pigment take longer, with best changes between 12 and 24 weeks and beyond with consistent use [1] [4] [5] [6] [8].

What is purging and how is it different from irritation

Purging is a temporary increase in breakouts in your usual acne-prone zones as turnover speeds up. It typically settles within 2–6 weeks. Irritation looks like burning, persistent redness, stinging or a rash and can occur anywhere the cream touches. Reduce frequency and moisturise if irritated, and contact us if it does not settle [1] [3].

Can I combine retinoids with vitamin C, AHAs, BHAs or benzoyl peroxide

Yes, but not all on the same night for most skin. Use vitamin C in the morning and your retinoid at night. Use leave-on AHAs or BHAs on alternate nights. If you use benzoyl peroxide, place it on alternate nights unless your doctor has advised a specific combined plan [1] [3] [7].

Can I use retinoids if I have rosacea or eczema

Sometimes, with care. We may start with a lower frequency, gentler base and strong barrier support. If you have an active flare, we settle that first.